Autumn / Winter 26 Threads of Osmosisis the second chapter in our LABRUM trilogy. Sound was the firstarchive. Textile is the second. In SS26, Cultural Osmosis, we explored sound as the first carrier of culture.Before borders. Before passports. Before the idea of nation-states. Sound moved freely through rhythm,oral tradition, highlife, prayer, laughter. It crossed oceans without permission. It belonged to the people.
The garments you see here are not metaphors. They are propositions. They test ideas physically on thebody, in motion and in community. Cloth is history you can touch. It absorbs climate, labour, belief, ritualand resistance. Textiles record migration not through dates, but through weave structures, fibres, motifsand cuts. They move quietly across continents; West Africa, India, China, Europe, and Britain, transformingas they encounter new hands, new climates, new meanings
This collection is not nostalgic. It does not look at textile history from a distance. It operates inside it. Eachsilhouette is an experiment in cultural osmosis, asking how structure and fluidity, discipline and movement,heritage and evolution, can coexist on the body.
Foday’s journey from Freetown to Cyprus to London lives inside this work. But this collection is not onlyhis; it is for the people. For every migrant story stitched into a hem. For every parent who carried fabric ina suitcase. For every culture that refused to disappear.
Our fabrics themselves have travelled. They are developed through bespoke fabrication across Japan,Hong Kong, India, Turkey, Portugal, Scotland, Italy, France and Sierra Leone. Each place leaves somethingbehind. Each technique alters the next. That is osmosis. That is exchange.
British tailoring remains the foundation; precise, structured, intentional, but it becomes a base for globalcraft. Tailoring reaches across menswear and womenswear equally this season. Suiting is empowerment.Structure is protection. Form is pride.
Our updated passport print carries new stamps and motifs reflecting the ever changing nature of migra-tion. It is laser etched into Japanese indigo denim, turning travel into texture. The edge is always in the detail.
Our Freetown print, depicting scenes from Sierra Leone, becomes craft through appliqué and hand em-broidery on wool outerwear, memory stitched directly onto structure.
The cowrie shell artwork, also seen in our upcoming adidas running collection, is developed through tradi-tional hand embroidery, grounding movement in heritage.
The cord appliqué dress draws from West African braided hairstyles; hair as architecture, hair as identity,hair as language. It carries the Nomoli and the Olokun flower, symbols of spirituality, protection and ances-tral presence. Fashion becomes archive.
Crocheted bags reference Sierra Leonean pottery and raffia craft, and woven textures echo vessels thatonce used to carry water and grain.
Jewellery this season, in collaboration with Florence West, explores movement and form in hand-shapedbrass sculptural pieces forged through traditional metalsmithing.
Headwear references the accordion-shaped hats of Agadez warriors, garments of finery worn at migrationcrossroads, where cultures gather rather than divide.
Hair is graphic. Threaded. Tensioned. Looped into circular coils, silhouettes of resilience.
Makeup layers colour and texture like molecular exchange; a study of osmosis on skin.
This show is also a tribute as we honour the legendary Ebo Taylor, whose music has long been the heart-beat of LABRUM. Highlife is itself osmosis, West African rhythm shaped by jazz, funk and diaspora ex-change. The soundtrack, created by Juls, reflects Ebo Taylor’s spirit. It carries the warmth of brass, thepulse of migration, the softness of memory. It reminds us that culture does not stand still. It travels. Ittransforms. It survives.
The world is better when we understand each other’s cultures. When we see migration not as threat, butas exchange. When we recognise that the fabric of Britain, of anywhere, is woven from elsewhere.This show is for the diaspora. For the immigrant. For the craftsman. For the next generation watching from the side of the runway.
Culture moves.
Threads connect us.
And we are all part of the weave.
