The rise of clean beauty and eco-conscious fashion has led to a growing movement where both sectors are taking a more mindful approach to sourcing, manufacturing, and marketing. From skincare products made with responsibly sourced, organic ingredients to clothing created from recycled or low-impact materials, consumers are embracing products that align with their values of health, sustainability, and well-being. Tommaso Iser Menini, founder and MD of Jua by Agar, a Kenyan brand that sells natural resources and cosmetics, has sponsored many eco-fashion events for many years, as he believes in the intersection between skin care and sustainable fashion.
Meet Tommaso Iser Menini – The Mind Behind Jua by Agar
FAB: What was your biggest “aha” moment that made you realize AGAR had the potential to change the industry?
Tommaso Iser Menini: I’ve developed my own scent line. Initially, we launched our signature scent in 2021, which became the staple of our collection for the next three years. By late 2024, growing demand led us to expand our offerings beyond a single option. We created a range of new scents: herbal, fruity, woody, and a blend of fruity and herbal.
I personally crafted the woody scent, which naturally turned out to be more masculine — perhaps that’s why I was drawn to it. It’s a rich blend of cypress, sweet myrrh, frankincense, and eucalyptus. Interestingly, all the trees used in the formulation are native to regions near our production sites. The cypress and eucalyptus come from Nanyuki and Naromoru, while the frankincense and myrrh are sourced from Samburu and Marsabit, located in Kenya’s northern arid zones.
I take pride in the fact that I’ve created a product rooted in Kenya’s natural resources. I’ve always loved woody scents, and it was fulfilling to find trees I genuinely connect with and could turn into something of value. And when it comes to frankincense and myrrh — you can only get that blend from us.
FAB: Names carry a lot of meaning. What’s the story behind Agar and Jua?
Tommaso Iser Menini: I founded Agar with the experience of a previous company I was involved in, which unfortunately didn’t succeed in 2017. With Agar, I wanted to incorporate the word “agency” into the name, as it captured the essence of what I envisioned—acting as a commodity agency. I already had ideas for a consultancy firm as well. The name “Agar” stands for African Agency for Arid Resources—with the ‘G’ added to give it a more refined, catchy sound and make it feel complete. I wanted a name that clearly reflected the work we were doing.
“Jua” came after my best friend and business associate suggested we rebrand to create a more captivating identity and packaging. I agreed, especially since we were aiming to expand into the European market, and our previous brand name—an Italian-sounding one—didn’t resonate with our identity or audience. We needed something that reflected where we came from. I always had Jua in my mind; no other name was ever considered.
I registered the name Jua by Agar in 2023 and secured the trademark—surprisingly, no one had used “Jua” in similar wording before. I’ve always loved the name because we work in arid areas where there’s abundant sun, and “jua” means “sun” in Swahili. It also comes from “kujaa”, which means “to know”, giving it a beautiful dual meaning that reflects our connection with both nature and people. It’s a clever and meaningful play on words that truly defines our company.
Frankincense, Myrrh, and the Power of African Ingredients
FAB: Frankincense and myrrh feel almost mythical – how do you go about harvesting these sacred resins in the wild? Is it science, a tradition of both?
Tommaso Iser Menini: Frankincense trees have a mythical quality, and during a visit with scientists in 2021, we observed several ancient trees—some over 100 years old. We were joined by renowned scientist and ethnobotanist Dr Anjanette DeCarlo, who came to physically inspect and assess the condition of frankincense trees in Kenya, focusing on small sample areas.
While there’s an abundance of old trees, young frankincense trees are noticeably scarce. That’s why we’re working on strengthening biodiversity through our own propagation efforts, which are currently underway at our site. Though frankincense trees are tapped today just as they were historically, this practice hasn’t been widely adopted in Kenya. The most prized and mythical frankincense still comes from regions like Oman, Yemen, Somalia, and Ethiopia—places where traditional knowledge of the resin is deeply rooted.
In Kenya, the science around frankincense is still developing, and few communities possess in-depth knowledge. Somali communities, in particular, hold extensive expertise due to their longstanding trade in the resin, which is considered among the finest globally.
FAB: What does the journey of frankincense and myrrh look like – from the dry Samburu soil to the final drop of oil?
Tommaso Iser Menini: As a company, we work to train collectors, organized groups, and sometimes even traders directly to ensure we receive the best quality. It’s less about complex science and more about applying traditional, practical knowledge.
We don’t require communities to sign exclusivity contracts—we believe in giving them the freedom to trade with anyone. Typically, we coordinate with local agents who help organize the volumes we need. Recently, our primary collection areas have been Samburu for frankincense and Marsabit and Moyale for myrrh. We’re also planning to resume trading and exporting gum Arabic, focusing on Samburu and Isiolo for that effort.
Once collected, the oils resins are sent for further inspection in Nanyuki if needed and then transported to our distillation plant in Nairobi. After processing, the oils return to us for formulation, bottling, and then back to our shops for final sale.
Ethical Harvesting and Community Empowerment in Samburu
FAB: Frankincense and Myrrh have been part of African trade routes for centuries. How does Agar approach their harvesting in a way that honours both heritage and sustainability?
Tommaso Iser Menini: We appreciate the idea of being part of a biblical-era trade and an ancient value chain like frankincense—and I often highlight this in my pitch. I position our work as the antithesis of today’s fast-paced tech and startup culture, especially in Kenya. We are a brick-and-mortar business working with goods that have carried immense value for millennia.
While frankincense may have passed through Kenya historically, the Somali communities have long dominated the trade due to their deep knowledge and exposure. Somalia is home to a variety of frankincense species and subspecies—three to four, in fact—while Kenya has just one. Their experience and biodiversity give them a unique edge in the global frankincense trade.
FAB: How is the typical day in the life of the harvesters in Samburu?
Tommaso Iser Menini: Harvesters usually work in the early morning, often setting out around 5 a.m., just before sunrise, to avoid the intense heat of the day. The exact timing and method of collection also depend on factors like location, proximity to wildlife, and terrain. The collection season runs through the dry months until around October or November, after which it pauses until the next dry period between January and March.
Sustainable harvesting is at the core of our training, and it’s a critical part of our collection process. It ensures that we do not harm the trees, which is essential for long-term preservation. Typically, gums begin to form naturally when the trees start to crack and release resin during the dry season—usually from June or July. The stress from the heat causes the trees to ooze resin, which is then collected.
FAB: Is there any ritual or rhythm to collecting frankincense and myrrh in the wild? How do local communities and nature guide the process?
Tommaso Iser Menini: While the collection of frankincense itself is not a ritual, it is often a tradition, depending on the community. We know that the Samburu community uses frankincense during circumcision ceremonies, which are significant cultural rites of passage marking a boy’s transition into manhood.
The harvesting process—and the understanding of when the resin is mature—varies with the seasons and local knowledge passed down through generations.
Sustainability vs Luxury: Challenges in African Packaging
FAB: What challenges do you face when creating your products?
Tommaso Iser Menini: The challenges we face are similar to those in other industries, including issues with the reliability of agents and suppliers, packaging, and transportation. Infrastructure in northern Kenya is limited, with poor road networks and occasional security concerns, making logistics difficult.
Packaging is another major challenge. While we would prefer sustainable alternatives like bamboo, it remains costly—even to cultivate. Kenya does not currently produce eco-friendly packaging, relying mainly on plastic. As a result, packaging has to be imported, which presents further difficulties due to high duties and tariffs at the port of entry.
Additionally, global standards can sometimes force businesses to lower their expectations, creating further obstacles in the journey toward sustainable solutions.
FAB: What misconceptions do people have about sustainable skin care?
Tommaso Iser Menini: That it is more expensive than other products—sometimes it is, and sometimes it isn’t. Many high-end skincare brands charge premium prices, yet their products may not always rank highly in terms of quality. These brands often rely on their name recognition, knowing that consumers will buy based on reputation rather than effectiveness. One way to raise awareness is by sponsoring and positioning brands alongside events that promote eco-friendly choices, whether in beauty, fashion, or other sustainable industries.
FAB: What innovation in sustainable beauty excites you at the moment?
Tommaso Iser Menini: I want to explore waste utilization. I have an exciting plan to use mango kernels and nuts to produce mango butter, as there is a significant amount of waste in this area. Additionally, organic oranges that are squeezed for juice can be repurposed to create essential oils. Unfortunately, fruit which is used for consumption has the skins treated for chemicals, hence it can’t be distilled. It’s another challenge!
There is so much bio-waste that goes completely unused, yet it has the potential to be transformed into incredible products. The idea of turning waste into valuable resources excites me, and I am eager to explore this concept further in the future.
FAB: What’s the one question you wished people asked you more about your work?
Tommaso Iser Menini: I’m rarely asked where I see the company in five or ten years—most questions tend to focus on the short term. But I envision the company growing into an empire. In the future, we may even separate it into two distinct legal entities. One could evolve into a not-for-profit organization focused on our impact-driven approach, including our new KAVADI Business Incubator concept. Agar would handle bulk sourcing, exporting, and reselling, while Jua would cater to hotels, retail shops, and direct consumer experiences. We plan to first expand regionally across East Africa and eventually take the brand international.
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Interview Conducted By: Harriet James
