Some people find their calling in the grandest of ways, but for Grace Mark, the seeds of her extraordinary career were planted during quiet moments of sewing in secondary school. What began as a simple love for creativity—experimenting with leftover fabrics and barbed wire—evolved into a 45-year legacy that’s reshaped the hat-making industry in Nigeria and beyond.
From creating her first hat out of scraps to receiving a heartfelt thank-you note from Michelle Obama, Grace’s journey is a masterclass in passion, persistence, and faith. She transformed her craft into a global brand, introducing bold, Nigerian-inspired designs to an international audience while overcoming the challenges of an industry once dominated by imported goods.
In this exclusive interview, Grace Mark shares her story with FAB L’Style Magazine, revealing the moments that defined her career, from her first sale at 10 naira to becoming the official designer for the Hat Ladies of Charleston. Through it all, she’s shown that creativity knows no bounds and that even the simplest materials can spark extraordinary innovation. Join us as we explore her remarkable journey, her reflections on legacy, and her belief that passion, not just funding, is the true foundation of entrepreneurial success.
A Conversation with Grace Mark, Nigeria’s Legendary Hat Designer
FAB: What inspired you to choose hat making as your creative focus? And at what point did you begin to see its potential as a business opportunity?
Grace Mark: I started making hats back in 1980 when I was still in secondary school. It all began quite casually. My elder sister came visiting one day and saw me working with a needle and some fabric. I should mention, I’ve never been the plainest person—I always liked creating things. At the time, I wasn’t just sewing for myself; I was also helping my classmates with their projects. It came naturally to me, and I enjoyed it.
When my sister saw this, she said, “I think you can make hats.” At first, it was just an idea, but it stayed with me. My sister often wore beautiful hats imported from London and America, but they were far beyond what I could afford. I also loved hats, but they couldn’t give me theirs due to the cost. So, I kept thinking, “I think I can make hats.” That thought stuck with me, and it planted the seed.
After finishing secondary school, while waiting to get into university, I started experimenting. I used leftover materials from my mother’s sewing projects at home and began to fiddle with them. Eventually, I created something that resembled a hat. I wore it to church once, twice… and the third time, someone approached me and asked where I imported my hats from because they matched my outfits so well. I told her, “No, I make them myself. I just piece together materials and create them.” She was impressed and told me she wanted something similar so she could look as stylish as me. That’s when it hit me—this wasn’t just a casual hobby anymore.
She asked how much it would cost. I said 10 naira. To my surprise, she gave me 30 naira and ordered three hats. I was so excited! I rushed home and shared the news with my parents. But then reality set in—I couldn’t keep using leftover materials to make hats to sell. I needed to source proper materials.
So, I went to the general market in Enugu to find materials for hat-making. It was frustrating because I couldn’t find anything that fit my vision. In the end, I went back to using the leftover materials I had at home. But that’s how it all started—with someone appreciating my work, buying a hat for 10 naira, and placing an order for three more. That moment changed everything for me. It turned my hobby into a business idea.
Challenges in Establishing a Luxury Hat Business
FAB: It’s clear that your journey has had its highs and lows, especially on the business side of things. You mentioned how it all began as a passion—experimenting with leftover materials. My question is, what challenges did you face in establishing this business as a desirable niche in Nigeria, particularly with something that’s not so mainstream?
Grace Mark: Yes, challenges are inevitable in every aspect of life and business. For me, one of the major challenges I faced was unacceptability. At the time, Nigerian-made products, especially in the fashion space, weren’t easily embraced. People were more drawn to English wear, and local creations didn’t have much appeal. I remember being laughed at because what I made was compared to items like children’s baskets. That was a major challenge because, without acceptance, it would have been difficult to sustain or grow the business.
Thankfully, over time, things started to change. The government’s push for promoting Nigerian-made goods played a significant role in shifting perceptions. Even though it took a while, persistence paid off. People gradually began to see the value in what I was creating. It wasn’t an overnight transformation, but I kept at it because I believed this was my God-given purpose. That belief gave me the grace to continue and keep pushing forward.
As acceptability grew, so did exposure. I started attending exhibitions, which opened more doors for me. Initially, funding wasn’t much of an issue because my main focus was on overcoming the lack of acceptance. Once that hurdle was cleared, I was able to secure financial support from family, friends, and even grants. For instance, while I was pursuing my studies at the Institute of Management and Technology, Enugu, I made use of the grants I received as a student, reinvested them into the business. It wasn’t a grand business idea at first; it grew gradually with effort and consistency.
FAB: You’ve expressed a strong belief that women can do anything, which is such a powerful philosophy. I’m curious—where does that belief stem from? Also, looking at the industry today, we’ve spoken to many young entrepreneurs, and whenever the conversation shifts to challenges, the predominant concern is always about funding—fund, fund, and fund. However, as a veteran in this industry, with over 45 years of experience, what do you think these young entrepreneurs are not seeing beyond funding? What critical aspects of business success might they be overlooking while focusing so much on financial resources?
Grace Mark: Yes, you know, hat-making for me is born out of passion. It’s something deeply rooted in who I am, not something I ventured into purely for financial gain, unlike many people I’ve encountered along the way. Over time, I’ve noticed that many who joined the business did so because they saw the success I had already achieved—hearing my name, seeing me travel abroad, and the recognition I was getting. However, the same way they came in, they left, because they lacked the sustaining power. But for me, this was never just about business—it was my passion.
Now, to your question about whether women can do anything, I strongly believe they can. It’s a mindset. Whatever you believe you can do, you will find the ability to achieve it. Today, we see women excelling in fields once dominated by men, like mechanics and engineering. It all comes down to determination and believing in yourself. As for young entrepreneurs, many of them don’t approach business with the right mindset. Often, they lack passion and enter the industry solely focused on money. They don’t ask themselves the critical question: “What is my interest in this business? Am I providing a solution?” Instead, they aim to start big, but anything that is truly great begins small. There’s always a case for humble beginnings. Without that foundation, whether you’re religious or not, it becomes easy to crash along the way.
I’ve faced my share of challenges, too. I recall one major incident, It was September 11, 2001 when my shop was completely burned down while I was in London sourcing materials. Everything was destroyed. But what wasn’t destroyed was my creativity, my passion, and the abilities God has given me. I came back just a few days after the incident and immediately got back to work. Some people’s orders were due within days, and I fulfilled them. My physical shop was gone, but my inner bank—my talent, passion, and determination—was intact. That mindset is what kept me going.
I also draw strength from my faith. As a Christian, I operate by God’s principles, and I know how to navigate challenges with that mindset. Many people would have given up after such a setback, but because this is my calling and passion, I continued. Anywhere in the world, if you place me there, I will still thrive. That’s because what I do comes from within—it’s not something I copied or learned in school. It’s innate. In fact, I didn’t even study anything related to this in university; I studied Cooperative Economics and Management.
The Business of Hat Making: Passion vs. Profit
FAB: You just made a point about studying Cooperative Economics and Management, how do you think that educational background has influenced your business journey? Especially considering the current narrative in Nigeria where many believe that “school is a scam.” This perspective often arises from seeing individuals with first and second degrees struggling to find meaningful opportunities. Some even argue that if someone wants to venture into a creative field like fashion design, they should skip formal education altogether and focus solely on building their business. What’s your take on this? Would you say education still holds value in entrepreneurial success, or is it something that can be bypassed?
Grace Mark: I completely disagree with the idea that school is a scam. There’s no way you can spend time within the four walls of an institution and come out the same. Knowledge always has an impact, even beyond the curriculum itself.
First, education exposes you to a variety of people—lecturers, classmates, and peers—who can play significant roles in your future. The interactions and relationships you build during that time often shape your perspectives and create opportunities. So, saying school is a scam doesn’t hold water.
Now, let’s be honest. Some of the problems stem from how education is approached these days. Over time, things like exam malpractices, students prioritizing parties over academics, and even inappropriate relationships with lecturers have watered down the essence of education for many. People with these attitudes often leave school without the discipline or knowledge to make an impact in the real world. Then they turn around and call school a scam, forgetting that they didn’t put in the effort to truly benefit from it.
The truth is, life is not fair, and school is one of the environments where you should learn that lesson. But if students adopt a mindset of shortcuts and corruption, they come out thinking they can maneuver their way through everything, which is why we see so many unethical practices in society today. It’s a foundational issue—one that starts in homes, schools, and even with exposure to media that normalizes bad behavior. So, the idea that school is a scam comes from a misunderstanding of its value and a lack of willingness to engage fully. In reality, education remains a powerful tool for personal and professional growth.
FAB: You have touched on something very important: networking. The idea that during your academic journey, you meet people—classmates, faculty colleagues, hostel mates—who could play pivotal roles in your future is so crucial. Everywhere we turn, people are emphasizing the importance of networking—at conferences, events, and workshops. Everyone keeps saying, “You have to network, you have to network.” But for many young creatives, the concept can feel vague. They’re asking, “What exactly does it mean to network?” and “How do I actually go about it?” For example, imagine I’m a shoemaker or a hat maker, and I attend an event, let’s say in Lagos. What exactly should I do to network effectively in such a creative space as a creative? How do I make those meaningful connections that could advance my craft and business?
Grace Mark: Absolutely, your network truly is your net worth. Networking can be as simple as interacting with influencers, peers, or even people from entirely different industries. For example, as a hat designer, I meet fashion designers, photographers, stylists, and other creatives when I attend exhibitions. These interactions open up opportunities for collaboration. One key group I often work with is fashion stylists because their clients may not overlap with mine, so I leverage their customer base. I simply approach them, introduce my work, and suggest they recommend my hats to their clients. This way, we both benefit—it’s a win-win situation.
Networking isn’t just about selling products on the spot. It’s about building connections and creating opportunities. For instance, many of the shows I’ve participated in abroad happened because of networking. I met people from Senegal, America, and other parts of the world at exhibitions here in Nigeria. These were experienced individuals who saw potential in my work early on, even when my designs were still evolving. Some of them kept my contact and, years later, invited me to participate in events like Black History Month, which opened doors to even bigger opportunities.
I’ll share a specific example: I once traveled to South Carolina for vacation and displayed some of my hats in my brother’s gallery, which was in a hybrid location. Tourists would stop by, and one day, a lady walked in and admired my hats. She asked where I was from, and I told her Nigeria. She immediately connected me to another woman in Chelsea who was passionate about hats. This woman, in turn, introduced me to a network of like-minded individuals.
Coincidentally, she mentioned a hat shop she had visited in Nigeria called Graces, and I told her, “I am Graces.” The connection was instant. That single meeting led to the creation of the Hat Ladies of Charleston, a network of women passionate about hats. I became their official hat designer for over 11 years, and we even started creating awareness for hat culture across America. Now, imagine if I hadn’t displayed my hats in that gallery or met that woman—it wouldn’t have happened. Networking creates reference points and relationships that can last a lifetime,
Global Recognition & Michelle Obama’s Thank-You Letter
Grace Mark: Yes, the story of how the Hat Ladies of Charleston was formed is really what opened doors for me on an international scale. That platform introduced me to a network of influential people from all over the world. The Hat Ladies were well-connected, and many of them were people of affluence, including diplomats, influential women, and dignitaries who deeply appreciated the art of hat-making. In America, hats are often considered a luxury item, and those who love them are willing to spend significantly for custom, unique designs.
One of the women I met through the Hat Ladies happened to be connected to the Queen’s circle, and she became instrumental in expanding my reach. The power of networking came into play as these women, passionate about hats, carried my designs with them wherever they went. It became a chain reaction—one connection led to another, and soon, we were linked to people who had access to the White House.
It was during one of these high-profile events, where all the First Ladies from around the world gathered annually in New York, that we had the opportunity to present one of my hats to former First Lady Michelle Obama. While she couldn’t personally attend that year, a representative received the hat on her behalf. To my surprise and immense gratitude, she later wore the hat on CNN, and the label “Made by Grace Mark, Nigeria” was boldly visible.
Shortly after, I received a heartfelt thank-you letter from her expressing her appreciation for the hat and acknowledging its uniqueness. That letter was a game-changer. It was like having an influential figure here in Nigeria showcase your work—it carried immense weight and publicity. It widened my reach, not just internationally but also within Nigeria, as it gave my brand credibility and visibility. Everywhere I traveled with the Hat Ladies, people were fascinated by the creativity and vibrant colors of my hats. Many even said they’d never seen anything like them before, and some were moved to tears by how the designs resonated with them. The experience reaffirmed the value of networking, as those connections brought me into spaces I never imagined. It’s also a testament to how passion and divine creativity can open doors, even without formal training in a particular field.
FAB: How do you decide on the materials you use? Your designs are bold, vibrant, and incredibly creative, and you cater to a global audience. What role does your Nigerian culture play in influencing your designs and material choices?
Grace Mark: Yes, there’s quite an interesting story behind it. When I started, I didn’t mention this before, but I began with barbed wire – the kind they used for fencing back in the day. It might sound unusual, but that’s what the Spirit of God opened my eyes to use. I would buy the wire, cut it into pieces, and bend it with my hands, then wrap it with foam. I’d also use linen – what we now call silk – because that’s what was available at the time. People started liking it, and that’s how I began.
Then, as time went on, customers began requesting wide-brimmed hats, and I started using different materials like lace. I also discovered felt straws used abroad, which gave my designs a more English feel. Clients started asking for hats made from their own fabrics, including Ankara, Aso-oke, and Kente, so I thought, if I want to appeal to the Nigerian market, I need to blend these fabrics with my designs. That’s how I began creating fascinators, using crinoline, a material made from banana fibers that we imported from China.
During one of my trips to China, I worked with producers to create my own crinoline concept. It’s a very flexible material, and I decided to use it for something more than just hat accessories. It was the creativity and passion God placed within me that led me to make complete hats with this material, which was a new approach at the time.
One day, a lady came into my shop and asked if I could make something using her fabric. She wanted an African-style headpiece, something she could tie around her head while still being fashionable. That’s how the “Turbanator” was born – a fancy bow tied on the side, inspired by the way African women traditionally style their hair. At the time, I didn’t even have a name for it, but it quickly became popular.
One of the key moments in my journey came when I met Aunt Abba Folawiyo of Labanella, a well-known designer who worked with many influential people. She gave me some fabric to work with, and after I finished the designs, I took them back to her. To my surprise, my designs were featured in newspapers, and that was a major breakthrough. The fabric choices I make are inspired by both what resonates with the people I design for and what’s available in Nigeria. People abroad especially love the variety and richness of our fabrics. I’ve even started incorporating the Igbo “Haze” tie scarf and Aso-oke into my designs. These materials are not just for African clients – they are loved worldwide. A good example is my work with Nike Gallery, a prominent figure in Art. I’m the one who creates the big hats she wears, and that’s been another rewarding part of my journey.
The Future of Hat-Making and the Legacy of Grace Mark
FAB: You’ve mentioned creating the Turbanator, which was such an innovative move. So, my question is, after more than 45 years in the industry, what continues to drive you to keep creating and innovating?
Grace Mark: Before I answer your question, I want to mention that aside from the Turbanator, I also expanded into creating the Gele. You know how African women traditionally tie their hair in intricate styles? Many ladies struggled to tie their Gele correctly, especially when preparing for an occasion, and this would take up a lot of time. So, God gave me the idea to make a permanent Gele using African fabric, which allowed women to simply wear it like a hat. It gained popularity here and abroad, especially among those in intercultural marriages—like an African man marrying an Oyinbo lady—who wanted the Gele for their traditional wedding but couldn’t tie it themselves. Presently, I make the Gele and provide it as a ready-to-wear piece.
Now, to answer your question about what still motivates my creativity after 45 years: this is a gift that God gave me, and I believe I was born to do this. I remember how someone once told me, “I think you can make hats,” and I had no idea how to do it at that time, but I knew I had to run with it. It’s only by God’s grace that I was able to grasp that vision. As a minister of the gospel, I believe that God, as the ultimate creator, instills creativity in all of us, and by serving Him, I receive endless creativity. I don’t pray for creativity—it comes naturally. It’s like if God is inexhaustible, then I too should have inexhaustible creativity. When I look at God’s creations—faces, flowers, and even everyday objects—it sparks ideas and brings out what he’s already deposited in me. So, what keeps me going is God’s continuous inspiration. As I work, I worship, I sing, and that joy in my heart has been the driving force for me over the years.
FAB: Looking back over the past 45 years, have you ever taken the time to reflect on what hats truly represent to you, especially as a creative? What would you say hats mean to you now, after all this time, both as an artist and a fashion designer?
Grace Mark: To me, hats represent adornment. They complete a woman’s look, adding that final touch to an outfit and bringing an air of elegance. In one word, it’s all about adornment. Hats have had such a profound impact because many people know how they want to look from head to toe but often struggle to find the right piece to complete their look. Through my work, God has provided a way to meet those expectations, making my creations a source of completion for them.
Women, in particular, love the attention and admiration that comes with wearing something special, and I’ve never had a customer who bought or wore my hats without receiving compliments. They often tell me it was the highlight of the event, so for me, hats are truly about enhancing and completing the overall look.
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FAB: Looking ahead — in 50, 100, or even 200 years from now, what is it that you would like to be remembered for? What kind of legacy do you hope to leave behind for future generations?
Grace Mark: One thing I would like to be remembered for is my creativity. It’s something that’s so intrinsic to who I am. I can’t stop creating, and I can’t repeat what I’ve done. When God gives me a concept, I bring it to life in a unique way that can’t be replicated. It’s something I know will remain true for years to come. Only God can replicate that kind of creativity. Just like Lucy, one of the biggest hat designers in London, who was remembered for her exceptional creativity, I hope to leave behind a legacy of originality and innovation in the craft that I love.
FAB: Are there any exciting projects in the pipeline for you in 2025? Should we be looking forward to any collaborations, partnerships, or new collections this year?
Grace Mark: Yes, one of my big projects this year is launching my book in July, where I’ll be sharing my story. It’s something I feel deeply passionate about as it will be one of the legacies I leave behind for future generations. As I mentioned before, this journey hasn’t been something I learned from anywhere—it’s been a gift from God. I want to inspire young people to realize that, in their own time, they too can transform something seemingly insignificant into something extraordinary.
I also just remembered a story that really speaks to this. One time, when I was in New York visiting a friend’s restaurant, her mother was untying stockfish with this string to prevent it from breaking. They were about to throw the string away, but I said, “Don’t throw it away, I’ll take it.” They were confused, asking me what I would use it for, and I didn’t have an answer at the time. I just washed it to get rid of any smell, packed it in my bag, and brought it back to Nigeria.
A few weeks later, when I was working on a design, I suddenly remembered those strings, and that’s when the Spirit of God reminded me of them. I used that string to create what I called “Joseph’s strip,” and it became my unique niche in the world of hat design. After finishing that first batch, I wasn’t sure how I would get more, until one day I walked through a market and found the exact same string being used to tie goods from abroad. People in the market were staring at me like I was picking up trash, but that “trash” became the key material that helped elevate my work. Stories like this are countless in my journey, showing how the smallest things can transform into something of great value.
Fun Zone: #FabFastFive
FAB: Do you like to save more or spend more?
Grace Mark: Save more.
FAB: What is the first item you pack for an out-of-the-country flight?
Grace Mark: My shoes.
FAB: If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Grace Mark: Glory be to the Lord.
FAB: What is your favourite colour in the rainbow?
Grace Mark: Green is my favourite colour.
FAB: What was your favourite subject in secondary school?
Grace Mark: Mathematics.