An intimate atmosphere envelops the scene as women’s voices weave through the air, while magical creatures, exuding refined vanity, drift gracefully through the halls. Inside, daylight has given way to the night. In this suspended moment, inspiration harks back to the time of preparation preceding a party—a hidden makeup room and the secret elegance of a private ball, tinged with surrealistic hues, serve as suggestions defining Vivetta’s world of enchantment. Wandering the venue of Cavoli a Merenda, the Milanese setting chosen as the show location, the FW24 collection by Vivetta unfolds with a vision of an edited palette, where deep blacks give way to creamy nuances and vibrant scarlet accents. It’s a collection characterised by short silhouettes that subtly elongate, defying conformity while maintaining a timeless allure.
Luxurious fabrics abound, with the lustrous sheen of duchesse offering a contemporary reinterpretation of the exquisite refinement reminiscent of bygone ateliers, adorned with luminous accents of stones and crystals. Here, a lingerie-inspired mood of chiffon reveals the playful charm of rompers underneath, while tops and shorts crafted from crepe de chine are adorned with intricate lace detailing. These same lace embellishments manifest as unexpected ruffles on classically tailored suits, embodying Vivetta’s penchant for juxtaposing contrasting elements. This is evident even in the incorporation of masculine wardrobe staples such as the jacket-trouser ensemble and woolen pied de poule patterns, juxtaposed with romantic flourishes of bows and roses that elevate the mundane to the extraordinary.
“A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.” The essence lies within a clothing tautology, a hypnotic repetition that Vivetta transforms into a diaphora—while repeating the flower as an object, she suggests a multifaceted exploration of meaning. As rosebuds and delicate ramage motifs are showcased in the form of delicate embroidery, each new appearance of the rose serves to expand the discourse, imbuing it with a broader sense full of mystery. The first rose depicts just the petals and thorns, while the second evokes notions of delicacy, femininity, and purity. And yet Vivetta merely introduces a multitude of ‘roses,’ letting her women have the freedom to infuse the image with their own interpretations and emotions.
In the journey of the rose, a print serving as Vivetta’s signature flirts with collage. This plays with its traditional ‘making of’ process, elevating it to a finished product because preparation is an art; it’s already art. By juxtaposing and melding together figurative elements, hand-drawn designs, and photographs, Vivetta unleashes visionary faculties. A rose reminds the designer of the gentleness of a hand cradling its stem and delicate bloom. Pink as a rose, it signifies the allure of a mouth, the flutter of a butterfly, the sensuality of a cherry, and the soft knot of a sweet bow.
Echoing the Vivetta FW24 collection are exquisite new jewels. Handcrafted by skilled artisans, these modern adornments pay homage to the theme of intertwined hands, shaping glasses with hints of magical realism. Mischievous with grace and irony, other jewels seamlessly return to the emblem of prosperity and generative power represented by the phallic element, serving as a lucky charm on apotropaic pieces. As for the shoes, the focus is on the sophistication of bows as a feminine and retro element. Amplified in bijoux and headpieces, this decoration appears twice in Mary Janes, slingbacks, and flat models. It’s as if a delightful prototype error has been permitted to grace the runway, leaving the choice open as to which bow dimension to prefer. And above all, it’s the transposition of that special moment of ‘making of’ on which Vivetta shines the spotlight today.
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