Tess van Zalinge unveiled her latest collection, ‘momentum,’ at the iconic House of Finn Juhl during Copenhagen Fashion Week SS25. This marked her second showcase at CPHFW, where she presented a unique experience that immersed the audience into intimate moments from her atelier through an intricately choreographed tableau vivant.
“I am honored to be featured on the Copenhagen Fashion Week program for the second successive year,” said Tess van Zalinge. “This year, I am presenting a new collection that celebrates my artistic peak of creating couture. It represents the dynamic moment of creation that occurs in my atelier, where the art of tailoring and the creation of unique, handcrafted designs come together in their most exceptional form.” – Tess van Zalinge
Copenhagen Fashion Week
Every aspect of the presentation was thoughtfully curated, merging the ambiance of an atelier with an exhibition setup. Alongside the captivating models, the entire presentation brought the collection to life with a tableau vivant. The audience was brought into the ‘momentum’ of the atelier, observing the layered process of building a couture collection. The performative showcase unfolded as a captivating display of models navigating the space, complemented by mannequins dressed by Tess and her team. This created a layered narrative that highlighted each design in its full artistic detail.
Enhancing this experience, the unusual cast—including writer and media maker Stijn de Vries, climate activist and model Kiki Boreel, presenter Lais van Niel, and top model and creative Elise Smidt—adds diverse perspectives and enriches the narrative. The experience goes beyond visual appeal, inviting visitors to engage with elements usually hidden behind closed doors, further enriched by bespoke sounds and ambiance.
‘momentum’
The collection is inspired by the continuous changes around us, which can appear frozen while still in motion. This couture collection embraces the paradox of movement and stillness, capturing dynamics in the perfection of craftsmanship, ‘momentum’. Tess’s affinity for tailoring, construction, and craftsmanship is typically so seamlessly integrated into the designs that they can be hidden from view. This year these elements are showcased prominently, ensuring that the intricate processes behind her designs are clearly visible and celebrated. This collection reveals that moment, sharing her imaginative peak of tailoring, construction, and craftsmanship in its purest and most artistic form.
With ‘momentum,’ Tess van Zalinge aims to create modern and timeless designs that are cherished and foster emotional attachment. By exposing the artisanal processes and embracing a collaborative approach, she seeks to promote appreciation and knowledge, contributing to a transparent, collaborative, and sustainable industry. This year, for the first time, the collection includes couture creations for men alongside her established designs for women.
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The collection features unique handmade designs in sizes ranging from 36 to 50, crafted from deadstock materials from various partners, including Nortvi. This sustainable travel gear label provided returned suitcases, which Tess ingeniously repurposed. Ornaments were laser-cut from the suitcase hard covers and their linings were transformed into intricate corset-shaped designs, highlighting the craft and sustainable approach behind each piece. Also working with high-quality recycled suits from Atelier Munro and developing unconventional items, glass-blown objects developed in partnership with Sommer Dutch Glass Art are emphasizing Tess her approach to artistic reference and craftsmanship. Collaborations with a variety of skilled artisan contribute their unique expertise, resulting in a rich, innovative and diverse couture collection.
Amsterdam Fashion Week
As the journey continues, Tess van Zalinge is excited to announce her participation in this year’s Amsterdam Fashion Week. At studio3000 in Amsterdam Noord on September 4, Tess will unveil an expanded version of the ‘momentum’ collection, incorporating additional layers of craftsmanship, tailoring, and color that build on the Copenhagen showcase. Attendees can anticipate an even more unconventional runway experience, where the presentation will evolve Tess’s exploration of traditional fashion show formats through inventive choreography and a intriguing cast of models. This enhanced showcase will further emphasize the fusion of craftsmanship, emotional connection, and compelling storytelling, offering a fully immersive experience of the entire collection.
Creative collaborations and partners
We extend our heartfelt gratitude to the incredible partners who have been instrumental in making this presentation a success.
First, we express our deep appreciation to Copenhagen Fashion Week for graciously welcoming us back. The House of Finn Juhl deserves special thanks for opening their doors, allowing our art to blend seamlessly with their exquisite designs. Nortvi’s commitment to sustainability and innovation has been invaluable, especially the collaboration to development new techniques and crafts with their upcycled suitcases. Our collaboration with Atelier Munro on recycled suits has been a remarkable journey, and Sommer Dutch Glass Art has added an extraordinary touch to our collection with their unique, hand-blown glass bags. Trek BareFoot’s innovative five-finger shoes, worn by our models, have brilliantly emphasized natural movement and freedom. Alvanon’s latest techniques and mannequins have ensured that our garments fit perfectly across all sizes, showcasing our commitment to inclusivity. Special thanks to Reben Spritz for providing the delightful drinks that added a refreshing touch to our event.
We are grateful to Hyundai for making it possible for our team and collection to travel comfortably and sustainably from Amsterdam to Copenhagen. The campaign series for ‘momentum’ was beautifully captured by the inspiring Bastiaan Woudt, and the final looks were exquisitely accessorized by artist Janet Vollebregt. Our sincere thanks go to the entire Kerasilk team for their expert hairstyling, and to the Sisley Paris team for their exceptional skincare and makeup styling of our cast. Finally, a big thank you to our media partner, Harper’s Bazaar, whose unwavering support and shared vision have significantly contributed to the fusion of fashion, creativity, and sustainable innovation.
Each of these partnerships has played a crucial role in bringing our vision to life, and for that, we are profoundly grateful. Stay up to date on the latest in fashion, arts, beauty, and lifestyle by following FAB L’Style Magazine.
Credit:
Campaign photography by Bastiaan Woudt
Cphfw photography by Evan Justins
Cphfw photography by Nick Kuipers
Cphfw photography by Tobias Hoffmann
