MORDECAI debuts Collection #1: “Flight Techniques” with a presentation during Men’s Fashion Week on January 12th, 2024, as part of the CNMI official calendar.
“How can one become so light as to detach from the weights that drag us to the ground?”
“How can one convey lightness and volume at the same time?”
“How can a garment cover but also emphasise? Cover and show? Keep warm and keep us cool?”
Ludovico Bruno, MORDECAI’s Creative Director, explores the essence of lightness, posing questions that transcend the limitations of traditional attire and contemplating the dual nature of garments—covering yet emphasising, repairing while revealing, keeping warm while maintaining a sense of coolness.
The collection starts with the designer’s reflection on the desire to travel light, discarding the superfluous for the indispensable, culminating in the ultimate realisation of reducing excess and embracing the vital elements that define our wardrobe without adding unnecessary weight. This core philosophy is translated into Collection #1, emphasising a fundamental and defined style.
Menswear staples and martial arts attire inspire MORDECAI Collection #1, focusing on lightness and precision with a distinct silhouette-driven approach. The shapes maintain a loose yet controlled form, featuring round and substantial shoulders and pants with deep folds opening below the waist and tapering at the ankle.
The neutral colour palette aligns with the previous season, introducing new tones such as cognac, burnt brown, and dark grey melange.
The fabrics and materials used include super-light matte nylon, fustian, mohair-like wool, hand-operated cashmere pashmina, and cupro silk for a washed-used look. Sheepskin and leather take centre stage in natural dark brown hues, while exclusive fabrics, including raw wool jacquard, showcase intricate patterns on a loom.
While outerwear still plays a prominent role in MORDECAI’s DNA, knitwear also assumes a central role in the collection. Baby alpaca and super kid mohair bring a soft and light fuzzy texture to the basics in merino, cashmere, and cotton. A revolutionary knitting technique transforms the traditional sweatshirt into a knitted cashmere grommet ensemble, offering a luxurious and comfortable alternative to active leisurewear.
MORDECAI Collection #1 has been crafted with the intention of making a distinctive and enduring impression, ensuring a lasting impact and timeless luxury.
About: Ludovico Bruno
Ludovico Bruno started his career working as a knitwear designer with Edward Buchanan at Sansovino 6, followed by a three-year stint at Moncler working on their Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge collections, before venturing into couture. Through his mentorship with Giambattista Valli and later working directly with Thom Browne as a senior designer, Bruno earned his savoir-faire with some of fashion’s most revered designers. Particularly Thom Browne’s sophisticated approach to menswear and discreet visual codes were elements that stuck with Ludovico Bruno as he progressed into his role as head designer for Moncler Genius, working with the likes of Hiroshi Fujiwara, Craig Green, Matthew Williams, and Simone Rocha later in his creative consultancy of Ambush by Yoon Ahn and ultimately when he founded his own menswear label, MORDECAI.
Images courtesy: Vito Lorusso
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