With a growing emphasis on sustainability, inclusivity, and social responsibility, the East African fashion scene is at the forefront of a global movement towards more ethical and conscious design practices. Join us as we explore the dynamic scene of East African fashion and meet one of its rising stars, Nankya Mariam Sumini, whose innovative designs and passion are shaping the future of the industry.
Drawing inspiration from traditional East African textiles like Kitenge, Mariam seamlessly infuses elements of heritage into contemporary fashion, creating pieces that resonate with authenticity and flair. Discover her creative process, challenges, and aspirations, and discover how fashion becomes a powerful tool for self-expression and empowerment in Mariam’s hands.
My collections are intended to be sleek and simple essential pieces that can help just about anyone build a nice wardrobe, perfectly crafted with exquisite quality to inspire confidence and authenticity
Nankya Mariam Sumini
FAB: What sparked your interest in fashion design, and how did you begin your journey in the industry?
Mariam Sumini: Aside from doodling in my sketch book and hand sewing little dresses for my Barbie doll as a child, my love for good clothes made me choose fashion designing in 2014 when I got an appointment for a corporate job and I wanted to dress up and look the part. The imported clothes on the market at that time that tried to match the standard I wanted were way above what I could afford, in addition to always feeling like I could do more to add flair to them, so I decided to learn how to make my own clothes to satisfy my creative fantasies. I cleared up my aunt’s pantry to create a small sewing room, started sewing my own clothes, and showcased them at work. I enjoyed lots of nice compliments until I made my first sale. Since then, my outfits started taking up space one wardrobe at a time, and in 2021, Sumi Flair was officially born as I realised making clothes was not just a hobby but my path to walk.
Mariam Sumini: I start by creating a mood board first to plan colours, feel, and aesthetics. This helps me stay inspired and stick to the intended direction, then I draw the sketches of the design.
Next, I procure the right materials for the design and go ahead to make the patterns according to the intended size.
Once the design and patterns are finalised, I proceed to cut the fabric, sew the garment, add finishing touches, press, and set it ready for fit-in.
FAB: Are there any specific themes or messages that you aim to convey through your fashion collections?
Mariam Sumini: My collections are intended to be sleek and simple essential pieces that can help just about anyone build a nice wardrobe, perfectly crafted with exquisite quality to inspire confidence and authenticity. That’s why I call them Savvy Unique Modish Identifiable Flair (Sumi Flair).
FAB: East Africa is increasingly gaining recognition on the global fashion stage. How do you see the fashion industry evolving in Uganda and the wider region in the coming years?
Mariam Sumini: Fashion brands, including home-grown brands like mine, can continue to grow and thrive in this ever-changing market by embracing inclusivity, sustainability, social responsibility, technology integration, and innovation, which are currently the driving forces shaping the global fashion industry.
FAB: Another fact about the region is its rich textile traditions. Do you draw inspiration from traditional East African textiles in your designs, and if so, how do you incorporate them into contemporary fashion?
Mariam Sumini: Oooh, I mostly love the bold colours and patterns of the Kitenge fabric. I can honestly say it’s the fabric that taught me how to sew before moving on to other fabrics. Actually, I have several pieces in my own wardrobe because I love wearing them with white or black, as this way they stand out and make a greater stylish impact.
I opt to add a manageable dose of kitengi fabric, just enough to reflect elegancy and confidence on garments like staff uniforms for branding, evening gowns, formal wear, especially pencil skirts, and fitted pants with plain or mixed and matched tops.
FAB: Have you had any memorable collaborations with other designers, artists, or organisations? If so, could you tell us about one?
Mariam Sumini: My most memorable collaboration was my very first costume designer project with Reach a Hand Uganda and Incredible Media for a TV series called Kyaddala for its second season in 2021. I had about 100 actors and extras to plan wardrobes for, and the shooting period was scheduled to last only 30 days for 12 episodes during the COVID lockdown. With my database skills, I created an algorithm that organised the entire cast’s set of outfits and accessories by scene and set location ID. This enabled me and my team to complete the task successfully within the prescribed time and get an award for Best Costume.
Since Kyaddala was based on a Ugandan-African kind of setting, I opted for something significant by incorporating kitenge fabric styled differently in each character’s wardrobe and creating the collection “A Touch of African Print, It’s Real,” which sold out after the series was released.
I strongly believe fashion is very personal to each individual. Everyone has their own unique taste and style. My designs leave room for an individual to carry their own fashion sense…
Nankya Mariam Sumini
FAB: What challenges have you faced as an emerging fashion designer, and how have you overcome them?
Mariam Sumini: The beginning of my career as a fashion designer was really hard since I was learning on the job in addition to doing it alongside my 8-to-5. This means that I still sacrifice my personal time and savings to work on my collections. The reality of going after your dreams is not always glamorous; there’s so much to learn, but all the huddles have helped me build character.
With my tight work schedule, sometimes things totally don’t go as planned. Sewing itself is hard on the body, but I don’t have to do it alone; I have given others the opportunity to learn and work with me.
Balancing creativity with business has also been very challenging, especially financially, but it’s rewarding because now I get to share my gift with the rest of the world and build a community around it.
Art is a gift from God; time after time, I pause, rest, and realign myself with the source of all creativity (Al Khaaliq) to recharge. It’s through God’s mercy and guidance that we can actually overcome the stumbling blocks that come with this journey. I immensely love making clothes; this passion satisfies my thirst for exploring, testing, and growing, so I show up every day regardless.
FAB: Fashion can be a powerful form of self-expression. How do you hope your designs empower individuals to express themselves?
Mariam Sumini: I strongly believe fashion is very personal to each individual. Everyone has their own unique taste and style. My designs leave room for an individual to carry their own fashion sense, and as soon as they align that with each outfit made, it builds their confidence. The good-quality, matched, and well-coordinated outfits we make for either a laid-back, casual look or a more sophisticated look can help you express yourself in the part you are showing up for. We give you a chance for self-discovery, allowing you to recreate and showcase different facets of your identity, with each outfit making you feel like the most authentic version of yourself, exuding confidence that is even contagious.
FAB: As an emerging designer, what advice would you give to other young creatives aspiring to break into the fashion industry?
Mariam Sumini: The fashion industry is very competitive; it requires grit, a strong work ethic, perseverance, and creativity as important qualities to nurture the journey.
FAB: In what ways do you hope to contribute to the growth and development of the fashion industry in Uganda and East Africa as a whole?
Mariam Sumini: I have witnessed Sumi Flair grow before my own eyes with my very first client, and then I have watched each client grow their wardrobes with pieces they actually love. It is proof that through our tailored and customised garments, we increasingly improve not only special occasions but also our daily wardrobe and livelihood. Clients crave uniqueness catering to individual styles and preferences; this adds so much to the fashion scene.
FAB: Looking ahead, what are your goals and aspirations for the future of your fashion brand?
Mariam Sumini: Growing my brand’s reach internationally through strategic partnerships. With all these beautiful experiences in fashion, I’ll continue teaching and mentoring upcoming fashion designers. Stay up to date on the newest in the world of Fashion, Arts, Beauty and Lifestyle; Follow FAB on Instagram.
Fun Zone: #FABFastFive
- FAB: If you could be any age for the rest of your life, which would you choose?
Mariam Sumini: I think my current age would be a good choice. I feel independent enough to make and take decisions for myself as an individual and for my business. I have a strong sense of direction, and I feel energised enough to go after my passion.
- FAB: What is that one thing you can never do without?
Mariam Sumini: I will give you a few. Quran, prayer, food, and rest. Without these, I am not fueled to do anything.
- FAB: Would you rather be in a cartoon or have an artist paint your picture?
Mariam Sumini: I would have an artist paint my picture because I love details in art. Though, with my playful character, I would not mind being in a cartoon.
- FAB: Would you rather go on a romantic vacation or a solo trip?
Mariam Sumini: That depends on where I am at that time in my life. I love taking time off to reflect on life and calm my mind, so a solo trip would be good for that. However, I’m romantic! I would definitely love a romantic trip.
- FAB: If you could jump into a pool of anything, what would it be full of?
Mariam Sumini: Lots and lots of rose petals. Flowers make me happy as they express simple beauty.
